Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Canal St. Martin...

It's always nice to find places you've never been in a city you consider home.  
A morning stroll brought me to the Canal St. Martin, a little street lined with wonderful looking restaurants.  It's like a tiny slice of Berkeley tucked away between the famous Parisian boulevards.  
We ate lunch along the Canal at Sésame, one of the many places in the neighborhood I mentally bookmarked to try. 

Sésame
51, quai de Valmy
Paris 75010
France

Metro: Republique

Nostalgic...

I think everyone here is getting a little bit homesick.  I could go on and on about the things that I miss, but I think all of my lamenting about Shannon, and tortilla chips are trumped by everyone elses need for coffee.  
I had stumbled across Breakfast In America on one of my many aimless walks around Paris.  What struck me most about it is the mile long line out the door every weekend.  Who knew bacon and eggs were such hot commodities in France!
Fulfilling that chip fantasy, and trying to make up for missing Ryan's chili creation at the Santa Cruz chili cook-off.
The food wasn't very good which, I suppose, means that Breakfast in America hit the nail on the head.  However, my coffee fanatic companions were just about to walk back into the kitchen and teach the staff how to brew a cup of joe.  Nonetheless, it was an interesting reverse culture experience, and a fun environment.  We've been talking about opening a food cart at the University of Bordeaux for weeks now.  Maybe we should serve breakfast our way!



4, rue Mahler
Paris 75004
France

Metro: St. Paul

Hot Chocolate...

I love morning time.
While Ethan, Tsoleene and Hannah slept in at our cozy Parisian apartment, I set off on an early morning quest for the perfect cup of hot cocoa.  
I'd done some reading on the subject before heading out, and settled on a place I had read about on Oh Happy Day!, a professional blog written by a crafter from San Francisco who recently relocated to Paris.  (Hmm, sound familiar?)
Follow Jordan's advice, I headed to Le Boulanger des Invalides Jocteur.  
The hot chocolate there is amazing!  It's thick and hot and so rich I could barely finish my mug. 
Nothing tastes better in the morning than the perfection of a quiet moment with a fresh croissant dipped in steamy chocolate, while the city buzzes about all around you.
 This dog knows exactly what she wants for breakfast!

P.S. It's one of those funny regional things but I've almost forgotten the word for pain au chocolate.  In Bordeaux, a chocolate croissant is called chocolatine, which just might be the sweetest name in the world!

14, avenue Villars
Paris 75007
France

Metro: Saint-Francois-Xavier

Homes Away From Home...

I read an article about alternative places to stay around the world in the travel section of the San Francisco Chronicle several years ago.  At the time, most of the content wasn't particularly relevant, but some things stick in your mind for good reason.
I am so glad I never forgot Airbnb.  I can't ever imagine staying in a hotel again.  (unless it's this one.)
How do you describe Airbnb?  It's a bit like couchsurfer, and a bit like subletting.  But better.
On Airbnb, homeowners can post their houses, apartments, castles, boats, igloos, tree houses, or yurts for people to stay in during vacation.  Rates vary from place to place, and on the size of your chateau, but in general, are far lower than a hotel, and much more convenient.  Every rental on Airbnb comes equip with the amenities and the comforts of home, while offering a place to stay in far off locations and a peek into the lives of others.
Hannah, Tsoleene, Ethan and I found an apartment on Airbnb for our weekend in Paris.  With hostel prices an outstanding thirty-five dollars per person per night to share a dorm room, our $110 four person studio in the Republique district was a far better deal and made us feel right at home.  
This is the apartment we stayed in this weekend.  With castles and cliff houses for rent, this place is not particularly stunning, but it was cozy for the weekend, and perfect for the four of us. 
Although we didn't spend much time at the house, as we had to pack as much as we could into our short stay, it was perfect to fall into a big soft bed at the end of the day, and to watch the rain on the skylight early in the mornings. 

If you're heading anywhere in the near future, use this link to sign up for Airbnb and rest easy :)

Paris...

It's hard to describe how I feel about this place.
I must have run through every possible emotion in the four days I spent in the city this last week.
I wish I'd written while I was still there.  As I walked through the park next to S&Co., I felt fit to burst with all the things I wanted to express.  Now, in Bordeaux, I don't feel fluent enough to write these thoughts and feelings eloquently.

This blog documents the things I live, (with a few exceptions). So why are there no pictures of Paris?


I had a hard time with this.
My relationship with Paris is hard to articulate, and borders something mad.  For some odd reason, I felt like Paris and I had some unspoken connection that transcended the need to immortalize her in snapshots.  To take a picture of Paris would be like photographing something vulnerable and naked.  These ideas don't really make a lot of sense at all.  But, in the whirlwind of the four days I spent in the city, little did. 

Paris is a chapter in my life.  
The best, best chapter there has been, and and an all too painful chapter to end.  Yet I wonder now if I've closed the doors on this place forever.
Despite the high of being back in my city, during the first three days I felt shy, like meeting a lover after two and a half silent years.  After much anxiety, I finally worked up the courage and made my way to the roots all these feelings; across the river and back to 37, rue Bucherie. 
I was nearly shaking when I walked through the doors of Shakespeare and Company.
Everything there was familiar.  The shelves of French novelists and the travel books by the door, the wishing well and steep library ladders, Colette, George's dog, and the faces.  Old faces in familiar corners, friends who did not know if I'd been gone two months or two years.  I sat in the park with Art and talked of old times; sitting by the river, talking until dawn, getting into mischief, and jumping in the Seine.  Sylvia was still running around the shop like a cyclone in an effort to get everything done in a day, and my bed upstairs next to the piano was still the best spot to sit and listen to people making music. 
Nothing in this tiny corner of the world had changed at all.
But I had.  
It was simultaneously a hard and a relieving sensation to come upon this realization.  I had never wanted to part from Paris, and in different circumstances, might  never have left.  And though it took me too long to accept that I was no longer living in this fictional world, I'm not really that tumbleweed any longer.

But who am I now, precisely?  
I'm still a girl who would prefer to live in a world of fiction, yes, but what kind of reality do I construct for myself?  I'm teetering at the edge of some new paradigm where I can no longer wait for experiences like Paris to come tumbling into my lap.  This is a time to be active, and I can do anything.
An entire world of possibility is perhaps the most intimidating things I can think of.  
How in the world will I ever alight on the right thing?
None of these ideas mean that I'll be leaving Paris behind.  If anything I'm holding onto it even more tightly, a means of anchoring myself to some identity.  I'll take it with me wherever I go, but finally,
I am free.




P.S. Though I didn't take pictures of the city, I did photograph the interiors of restaurants and the canal, evident here, here, here, here and here.

Evento Bordeaux...

Every two years, Bordeaux celebrates Evento, a two week long festival of the arts in urban spaces. 
Empty store fronts have been replaced by pop-up galleries and community spaces that provide anything from venues for fine art sculptures or prints, to virtual tours of Istanbul. 
My favorite pop-up shop during Evento was Publication Studio Bordeaux.

Publication Studio Bordeaux was a mixture of almost all my favorite things.  
Inside this tiny studio, writers, editors, bookbinders and publishers worked elbow to elbow, creating books from start to finish.   The concept of Publication Studio was first begun in Portland, where the emphasis was placed on the communal aspect of artisans working in the same space, and the creativity that could be generated in such an environment.  This week in Bordeaux, this idea was taken a step further and given a flair francais.  Publication Studio Bordeaux sold their books on a menu, alongside food!  Patrons and artists alike could have brunch, tapas or drinks while perusing handmade books, or chatting with friends. 
I've touched on this subject before, but there I find nothing more communal than the act sharing a meal.  Finding a place where both my passion for the community of food, and the act of creating communally were joined together was really, really inspiring.  
Someday, when Shannon and I have our studio, there will definitely be a kitchen attached!!!

Friday, October 7, 2011

Loads Of Loaves...

For the past month, Katie and Daniel have been staying on a farm in Normandy, gleaning all they could about tradition French pastries and farming practices.  There experience in the north was not quiet what they had anticipated, and when they arrived in Bordeaux last week, they were still on the search for the perfect loaf.  
My experiences with bread here thus far have been rather disappointing.  Grown accustomed to the quality of Companion Bakery and Tartine, my bread standards are very high.  Katie, Daniel and I however, have been diligent in our quest this week.  After loaves and loaves of bread from everywhere to the farmer's market, Carrefour, and SimplyMarket, we finally found, by word of mouth, one good Bordalais bakery.  
It took us three tries to finally find the store we were told about- no one seemed to know the name of this place.  When we finally came across a non-descript sign stating simply, Boulangerie, it came as no surprise that people were unable to recall the exterior details. 
The inside, however, is unforgettable.  Piles and piles of rustic gascon loafs rest like baby Jesuses in a giant manger.  Apple slippers, savory quiches and traditional Bordalais canelles are piled in baskets or on cake stands all about the store front.  Straight back, past the bakers wife selling loaves and a kitchen space with a full dining set, is the star of the Bordeaux bread scene.
 At first glance, the 250 year old wood fire oven looks like a trompe l'œil.  Every day this oven bakes anywhere from two to three hundred loaves of traditional gascon bread using the same techniques bakers have been using for centuries.  (For reference, this oven was built during the reign of Louis the XV and Marie Antoinette.)





The Baker's wife was happy to show us around the shop and opened the oven for us to peek inside.  The kitchen was cozy and warm with the heat from the wood fire, the kind of place where I could easily spend the entire winter curled up with books and bread.  We asked her all about the baking process, the history, the clientele, and what time of day the loafs come out hot.  They have two times for fresh bread each morning.  The first is around 6:30am and the next one is 9am.
What is done in the hot oven during the rest of the day?  There is a little sign underneath a poster of "the baker's wife".  Chers Clients, it reads. Le four étant chaud toute la journée nous vous proposons de faire cuire vos viandes et volailles c'est avec "grand joie" que le boulanger vous surveillera la cuisson. (Dear Clients, the oven is hot all day long and you can cook your meats and poultry here.  The baker will watch your meal with "great joy".)
This is very exciting news! According to the bakers wife, people don't often take them up the offer.  I've never cooked in a wood oven before, and I love wood fired bread and pizzas and oysters and everything else under the stars. With an open invitation to use the baker's oven anytime I'd like, I'll be cooking here all the time!  The only catch is finding a suitable pot to use in the wood oven...A Le Creuset perhaps?  It's a bit out of my price  range, but maybe if I were to look at it as a lifetime investment...


72, cours de la Martinique
Bordeaux 33000